I want to get off milk and meat — for my health, for the animals, and the climate comes on top. The usual approach would be to start with the easiest thing and save your favourite for last; I'm doing it the other way round. Everything else is just sauce anyway — a Big Mac tastes of sauce, a currywurst of curry ketchup, giving those up costs you nothing. South Tyrolean speck, on the other hand, is salt, smoke and at least 22 weeks of curing in mountain air, and that is exactly where the substitutes still get stuck: plant fat melts differently and doesn't cure. From today: none of it comes to the table at home, and I'm relaxed about it when I'm out.